고구려 복식의 기하학 문양 종류와 기법의 고유성

• 영문명: The uniqueness of geometrical patterns and techniques on dresses and ornaments of Goguryeo
• 발행기관: 백산학회
• 저자명: 朴仙姬(Park, Sun-Hee)
• 간행물 정보: 『백산학보』第79號, 77~124쪽, 전체 48쪽
• 주제분류: 인문학 > 역사학
• 파일형태: PDF
• 발행일자: 2008.01.30

영문 초록

The people of Goguryeo represented the beauty of shapes by placing round patterns of same size or by harmonizing round patterns of different size with diagonals successively on the whole clothes. Also the round patterns form symmetry and dissymmetry on upper and lower garments and with the beauty of moderate balance they expressed their own individual beauty. There are diamond patterns and square patterns as well as round patterns on dresses and ornaments of Goguryeo. Through these patterns, we can see the characteristics of modern shaping by successively representing various square patterns, and we can feel the free will of Goguryeo people in shaping that pursue varieties by harmonizing diamond patterns and round patterns. The geometrical patterns of Goguryeo on dresses and ornaments which were mostly made of monochrome represented cubic effect, but such styles are not shown on dresses and ornaments in China and Northern area. The dresses and ornaments of Northern area have triangle or square patterns, but not geometrical patterns on monochrome cloths as in Goguryeo. The triangle or square patterns of both China and Northern area were blended together and expressed synthesized forms and colors. The people of Goguryeo formed and developed geometrical patterns by themselves. Cones, the successive patterns of long curved lines, diagonal patterns linked up and down, crisscross patterns, stripe-ivy shapes and protrusion patterns are typical forms. We can see their free will in shaping and varieties from their expression on dresses and ornaments with such diverse geometrical patterns. The geometrical patterns represented on dresses and ornaments by Goguryeo people were differed from the styles and the way of matching the dresses and ornaments of people in China and Northern area. Before long, they created various atmospheres wearing same patterns of upper, lower and outer garments or wearing completely different patterns of garments with each other. The ways of making patterns are as various as the patterns that the people of Goguryeo represented on dresses and ornaments. The Korean race lived on the Korean peninsula and all over the Manchuria in ancient times generally wore clothes which were made of silks woven together with five colors of dyed threads. The monochrome tone seen in the ancient tomb mural succeeded to the techniques of Gojoseon, weaving with dyed threads or dyeing woven textiles slowly. In Goguryeo, there were various dyeing methods which represent geometrical patterns. Using dyed threads, people embroidered on textiles and expressed beautiful patterns with unique styles. Besides, they added decorative techniques on those and created gorgeous dresses and ornaments. It is regarded that such decorative techniques of Goguryeo was succeeded from Gojoseon as a style of expression. The Goguryeo people created the originality on their dresses by making same type of patterns differently for the size, style and direction of geometrical lines and by expressing naturally dynamic alterability of dresses and ornaments. The reason why the dresses and ornaments of geometrical patterns were developed was due to Goguryeo peoples’ aesthetic ability that can use the space beautifully and the high level of mathematics and geometry. Through such dresses and ornaments used by all Goguryeo people regardless of sex, age, social status and class, we can see their free lifestyles. The fact that the dresses and ornaments of geometrical patterns did not appear on wall painting or excavated dresses and ornaments in China or Northern area proves that textile production and dyeing techniques in ancient Korea were not derived from China.

목차

Ⅰ. 머리말

Ⅱ. 기학학문양의 종류와 고유양식

Ⅴ. 맺음말

[Abstract]

키워드

고조선복식 고구려복식 기하학문양 다양한 염색기법 혼합된 조형미 dresses and ornaments of Gojoseon dresses and ornaments of Goguryeo geometrical patterns various dyeing methods the beauty of moderate balanc